How Berwick Goodyear Welted shoes are made25.5. 2020
Shoes with the Goodyear Welted construction are the kings among footwear. This kind of manufacturing is not only highly complex and time-consuming but also very traditional. Since the process was patented by American gentleman Charles Goodyear Jr. in 1869, it produces reliable quality shoes. How does it look up close? Let's take a quick tour through the Spanish factory, where Berwick 1707 Goodyear Welted shoes are made.
Accuracy is of the utmost importance for cutting the leather, that's why it's done by master cobblers by hand or with the help of a machine. The result is the same - high accuracy and minimal waste.
A good shoe needs to be sewn properly and that takes a lot of work. All the cut leather pieces fit like a puzzle. First, all the pieces must be sewn together and then to the lining. After that, it's the time for adding brogues and fixing edges, in other words, everything is prepared for the last.
3) Last and weld
The pneumatic machine fits the shoe on the last and attaches the insole, which gives the shoe its shape. Cobbler then sews the welt separately to the upper and the insole. The created space is filled with cork. Thanks to another layer of cork and wider lasts, Berwick shoes are very comfortable, even for people with larger or atypically shaped insteps of their feet.
First, the sole is glued to the shoe to hold it in place before sewing. After that cobbler can clean all the edges from redundant material. The sole is then sewn to the welt with a durable waxed thread. The stitches don't penetrate the insole, which makes the shoe water-resistant. Finally, edges are rounded to perfection.
5) Everything in one place
There is a little bit of alchemy when making Goodyear Welted shoes. Berwick factory is divided into dozens of discreet stations. They may all work separately, but always in perfect harmony like an orchestra.
Berwick 1707 are handmade. Yes, the machines do some of the work, but without highly skilled cobblers, there wouldn't be any shoes.